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One of the best ways to get a feel for pioneer clothing is to study images of real people from the 1840s and 1850s.  We're lucky to have these images available!

It is important to note that the colors of the actual garments cannot be determined from these images; wet-plate photography processes (the processes used in the pioneer era) do not react as modern-day black & white film does. For instance, the colors black, scarlet, and canary yellow can all photograph as black!  Keep in mind that while everything looks very somber and grey, much of the clothing in the 1840-1860s was very bright.  The best way to learn about colors in clothing is to examine original garments and descriptions from letters, diaries, advertisements, paintings, and illustrations of the era.  Life was not drab!

Brother wears a gathered bodice with buttoned-on trousers. A small white collar is basted into the neckline of his bodice. Sister wears a fan-front, back-fastening printed dress.  Her sleeves are a narrow-bias-cut style popular in the 1840s, with a short sleeve cap at the armscye. She has white cuffs basted into the wrists of her dress.

Library of Congress # LC-USZ6-1988

A group of school boys from the 1850s, wearing white shirts, vests, neckties, and wool jackets.  Even boys of the middle working classes may wear these nice wool outfits, either sewn at home by Mother, or bought second-hand.  

Library of Congress # LC-USZ6-2025

 

A lovely early 1850s image of mother and child.  The toddler wears an open-neck dress with full skirts; not enough hair is visible to determine if this is a boy or girl.  The little black boots, white stockings, and bitty garters just below the knee are quite cunning.  Mama wears a beautiful print dress with long, slim sleeves and a scalloped sleeve cap.  Her bonnet has ribbon curls at each temple, and frames her face beautifully.  She is also wearing white undersleeves and a white collar. 

Library of Congress # LC-USZ4-10117

This pretty little girl wears her hair in ringlets (not a style easily kept up on the westward trek), with a shirred-front bodice made in an "ombre" printed fabric (the colors shade from one stripe to the next).  She holds her little china doll in her lap.  The girl's short bobbed haircut is very typical for growing girls mid-century. 

Library of Congress # LC-USZ6-1985

Yes, people in the past smiled for photographs!  This lovely woman from the late 1840s or very early 1850s smiles contentedly into the camera.  She wears a V-necked dress (which does not show décolletage) in a beautiful fabric, possibly a very light-weight brocaded silk from the sheen of it.  This dress style could also be made in a lightweight wool. The sleeves are two-part; a very slim, bias-cut inner sleeve with a slim, slightly flared outer sleeve in the same dress fabric.  You can see the lovely fullness of skirts and petticoats around the hips.   She also wears a lovely netted lace fischu, pinned at the center front with long tails trailing.  This sort of finery would often be reluctantly left behind, though it weighs only ounces. 

Library of Congress # LC-USZ62-112298

Yes, this dress would qualify as modest in the mid-century, even among LDS people. While the neckline is broad, it is shallow, not even a full handwidth below the collarbones.  It is a style suited to young ladies (17-20) and indoor settings, with full-gathered sleeves shirred smoothly into the armscye, a slightly pointed waistline, and very full gathered skirts.  With a jewel neckline, this style is well suited to the westward trek.  As visible cosmetics would not qualify as modest, the "shadow" to her eyes is only her very natural eyelashes.  The entire image has been lightly tinted by the photographer, to touch her jewelry with gilt. 

Library of Congress # LC-USZC4-10208

Not every emigrant was young; many of more mature years made the long trek to Zion.  This older gentleman wears a wool frock coat, wool vest, white shirt, and silk necktie or cravat.  His coat, vest, and trousers are likely wool, and very possibly, black wool.  These sorts of clothes could either be made new for the man, or purchased second-hand in most cities, both here in the United States, and in England and Europe.   

Library of Congress # LC-USZ62-109975

Fine white caps (in sheer cottons and linen) were commonly worn by married women in the 1830s, and into the 1840s.  By the late 1850s, caps for all-day wear were generally reserved for elderly ladies. This woman wears a slim, bias-cut sleeved dress with a matching short cape over it, a small white collar, and her white cap.  She may or may not use the cap daily along the trek (her sunbonnet will take its place), but it will almost certainly be folded into her dress pocket, safely set back for use at Sunday services and upon reaching the Valley.    

Library of Congress # LC-USZC4-9636

Some young couples began their married life with the trail. This couple wears styles of the late 1840s or very early 1850s: he looks conservative and tidy in a good wool frock coat, vest, and trousers, with a silk neckstock; on the trek, this clothing would serve well, but become very worn.  She wears a fan-front dress with slim bias sleeves and a small, straight sleeve cap.  She adds a small white collar and cuffs. The dress is most likely a lightweight wool, and would need no alterations for use on the trail.  Note her hair--it has the side fullness of the 40s and 50s, but is still worn high on the head, as in the 40s.

Library of Congress # LC-USZ6-2033

"Sunday Best" was not necessarily worn every day.  This group of young cordwainers (shoemakers) from the 1850s wears their everyday work clothing.  Outside the workshop (or along the trail) they'd simply remove the aprons, and add a wool coat (suit-weight, not winter weight).  For "best" wear, their shirts will most likely be white.  Note the "hat hair" on several of the men, and the "Brother Brigham" whiskers on two.

  Library of Congress # LC-USZC4-3946