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One of the best ways to get a feel
for pioneer clothing is to study images of real people from the 1840s
and 1850s. We're lucky to have these images available!
It is important to note that the
colors of the actual garments cannot be determined from these images;
wet-plate photography processes (the processes used in the pioneer
era) do not react as modern-day black & white film does. For instance,
the colors black, scarlet, and canary yellow can all photograph as
black! Keep in mind that while everything looks very somber and
grey, much of the clothing in the 1840-1860s was very bright.
The best way to learn about colors in clothing is to examine original
garments and descriptions from letters, diaries, advertisements,
paintings, and illustrations of the era. Life was not drab!
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Brother wears a gathered bodice with
buttoned-on trousers. A small white collar is basted into the
neckline of his bodice. Sister wears a fan-front, back-fastening
printed dress. Her sleeves are a narrow-bias-cut style
popular in the 1840s, with a short sleeve cap at the armscye.
She has white cuffs basted into the wrists of her dress.
Library of Congress # LC-USZ6-1988 |
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A group of school boys from the 1850s,
wearing white shirts, vests, neckties, and wool jackets.
Even boys of the middle working classes may wear these nice wool
outfits, either sewn at home by Mother, or bought second-hand.
Library of Congress # LC-USZ6-2025
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A lovely early 1850s image of mother and
child. The toddler wears an open-neck dress with full
skirts; not enough hair is visible to determine if this is a boy
or girl. The little black boots, white stockings, and
bitty garters just below the knee are quite cunning. Mama
wears a beautiful print dress with long, slim sleeves and a
scalloped sleeve cap. Her bonnet has ribbon curls at each
temple, and frames her face beautifully. She is also
wearing white undersleeves and a white collar.
Library of Congress # LC-USZ4-10117
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This pretty little girl wears her hair in
ringlets (not a style easily kept up on the westward trek), with
a shirred-front bodice made in an "ombre" printed fabric (the
colors shade from one stripe to the next). She holds her
little china doll in her lap. The girl's short bobbed
haircut is very typical for growing girls mid-century.
Library of Congress # LC-USZ6-1985 |
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Yes, people in the past smiled for
photographs! This lovely woman from the late 1840s or very
early 1850s smiles contentedly into the camera. She wears
a V-necked dress (which does not show décolletage) in a
beautiful fabric, possibly a very light-weight brocaded silk
from the sheen of it. This dress style could also be made
in a lightweight wool. The sleeves are two-part; a very slim,
bias-cut inner sleeve with a slim, slightly flared outer sleeve
in the same dress fabric. You can see the lovely fullness
of skirts and petticoats around the hips. She also
wears a lovely netted lace fischu, pinned at the center front
with long tails trailing. This sort of finery would often
be reluctantly left behind, though it weighs only ounces.
Library of Congress # LC-USZ62-112298 |
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Yes, this dress would qualify as modest in
the mid-century, even among LDS people. While the neckline is
broad, it is shallow, not even a full handwidth below the
collarbones. It is a style suited to young ladies (17-20)
and indoor settings, with full-gathered sleeves shirred
smoothly into the armscye, a slightly pointed waistline, and
very full gathered skirts. With a jewel neckline, this
style is well suited to the westward trek. As visible
cosmetics would not qualify as modest, the "shadow" to
her eyes is only her very natural eyelashes. The entire
image has been lightly tinted by the photographer, to touch her
jewelry with gilt.
Library of Congress # LC-USZC4-10208 |
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Not every emigrant was young; many of more
mature years made the long trek to Zion. This older
gentleman wears a wool frock coat, wool vest, white shirt, and
silk necktie or cravat. His coat, vest, and trousers are
likely wool, and very possibly, black wool. These sorts of
clothes could either be made new for the man, or purchased
second-hand in most cities, both here in the United States, and
in England and Europe.
Library of Congress # LC-USZ62-109975 |
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Fine white caps (in sheer cottons and
linen) were commonly worn by married women in the 1830s, and
into the 1840s. By the late 1850s, caps for all-day wear
were generally reserved for elderly ladies. This woman wears a
slim, bias-cut sleeved dress with a matching short cape over it,
a small white collar, and her white cap. She may or may
not use the cap daily along the trek (her sunbonnet will take
its place), but it will almost certainly be folded into her
dress pocket, safely set back for use at Sunday services and
upon reaching the Valley.
Library of Congress # LC-USZC4-9636 |
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Some young couples began their married
life with the trail. This couple wears styles of the late 1840s
or very early 1850s: he looks conservative and tidy in a good
wool frock coat, vest, and trousers, with a silk neckstock; on
the trek, this clothing would serve well, but become very worn.
She wears a fan-front dress with slim bias sleeves and a small,
straight sleeve cap. She adds a small white collar and
cuffs. The dress is most likely a lightweight wool, and would
need no alterations for use on the trail. Note her
hair--it has the side fullness of the 40s and 50s, but is still
worn high on the head, as in the 40s.
Library of Congress # LC-USZ6-2033 |
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"Sunday Best" was not necessarily worn
every day. This group of young cordwainers (shoemakers)
from the 1850s wears their everyday work clothing. Outside
the workshop (or along the trail) they'd simply remove the
aprons, and add a wool coat (suit-weight, not winter weight).
For "best" wear, their shirts will most likely be white.
Note the "hat hair" on several of the men, and the "Brother
Brigham" whiskers on two.
Library of Congress #
LC-USZC4-3946 |
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